At the end of Senovážná street, next to the art nouveau Municipal House and Smetana concert hall, is the 11th-century Powder Tower, gateway to Prague’s Old Town. This historic neighbourhood resembles Disney's most charming fairytale set pieces gathered together on a cobbled mantelpiece. The Square showcases layers of history in fanciful architecture: ice-cream-coloured, shield-emblazoned town houses; spike-turreted Tÿn Church; Jugendstil wedding-cake, St Nicholas Church; and Rococo, blush-pink Kinskÿ Palace. On the hour Orioj (the Town Hall’s 14th-century astronomical clock) plays a mechanised show with rotating apostles and an hourglass-wielding figure of Death – riveting stuff. The hotel’s equidistant from the Old and so-called New Town (actually founded in the 14th century); Wenceslas Square is a 10-minute walk along Jindřišská Street. Clubs and restaurants in this quarter tend towards the touristy, but the National Museum and State Opera House are worthy stops; and the Museum of Communism on Na Příkopě is notable for its location, above a McDonalds. For swoonsome views, climb up to Prague Castle on the left bank of the Vltva river, then stroll past the timbered houses along Golden Lane inside the walls. The castle looks magical from the Charles Bridge after sundown, thanks to the Rolling Stones, who paid for its lighting rig – allegedly after a drunken night with then president Vàclav Havel. The Jewish Quarter is both beautiful and heartbreaking, with a crowded cemetery dating back to the 15th century and ancient synagogues (the elder of which is strangely dubbed the Old-New Synagogue). While wandering, look for sculptures by the enfant terrible of the Czech art world, David Cernÿ: alien babies scaling the Zižkov Television Tower, Freud hanging from a building on Na Perstyne, and a pissing match in front of the Franz Kafka Museum – they’re cheeky yet curiously endearing.