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Capella Ubud

Ubud, Indonesia

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The Premises 

Enter the weird wonderful world of hotel hero Bill Bensley at Capella Ubud, a campsite pouring scorn on the classic tents-and-cold-showers combo. In homage to the European settlers of the early 19th century, design details include wooden trunks hiding minibars, hanging animal heads, freestanding copper tubs and canopied four-poster beds. The restaurant is named for Mads Johansen Lange, a Danish spice trader who moonlighted as a peacemaker, and with food this good, he’d be proud to lend his moniker. And just to reiterate that this is no ordinary campsite: you even get to choose which scented soap to use.

Capella Ubud

Jl. Raya Dalem, Banjar Triwangsa- Desa Keliki, Kecamatan Tegallalang Bali Ubud, 80561Indonesia



Compliments of the House 

One 40-minute foot reflexology session each (for up to two guests)

At the Hotel 

CHECK-OUT: Noon, but flexible, subject to availability. Earliest check-in, 3pm, also flexible on request.
Rates usually include breakfast and activities.


Free WiFi throughout, free valet parking, gym, bicycles to borrow, laundry. In rooms: air-conditioning, minibar, free bottled water, tea and a kettle, Illy coffee machine and custom-made organic bath products.


Bring your jungle-ready finest: no camo necessary, but you’ll be grateful for your long, mosquito-shunning sleeves.


The hotel uses locally sourced, organic produce and grows what it can on site.


Auriga Wellness has three spa tents where you can be soothed by traditional Balinese and Hindu-inspired treatments, including chakra balancing, pranic healing and nocturnal meditation. You can keep fit with jungle-based workouts, rice-paddy treks and suspension yoga.


The Cistern is a 20-metre saltwater pool flanked by rainforest.


Due to the rainforest-y, campsite setting, the hotel isn’t suitable for wheelchair users.
The wacky-but-wonderful design was the vision of Bill Bensley, who is also behind some of Asia’s greatest hotel hits, including the Siam in Bangkok and Maia in the Seychelles.


All rooms can accommodate either one extra bed (US$100 a night for children aged four to 12, US$175 a night for guests aged 12-and-up) or one baby cot (free for under-fours). No check-ins or check-outs are allowed on 25 March 2020, when Bali observes Nyepi Day (Day of Silence), although stays are still possible. Bali’s airport also closes for the day.


Each room has a vocational theme, whether it’s inspired by the baker, toy maker or photographer, with the design quirks to match; we love the minibars hiding in wooden trunks, the selection of soaps and the hammered-by-hand copper tubs. For amazing views of Keliki Valley and the largest of the resort’s private pool (19-24sq m), book a Keliki Valley Tent.

Food & Drink 

Unforgettable Features 

Breakfast – a choice of Indonesian, Chinese and Continental classics, along with some superfood bowls – is served in the split-level, tented Mads Lange. Don’t forget to look up: there are some pretty elaborate wood-carvings and murals waiting to be noticed. Api Jiwa, AKA ‘fire to the soul’ in Sanskrit, is open for robata-grilled, tasting-menu dinners; and this Asian barbecue comes with a wall of washing boards, woks and irons (you have to see it to believe it).

Liquid Bliss 

Mortar & Pestle is a pool bar next to the Cistern, where cocktails are muddled using the namesake ancient implement. Even the ice is crushed manually.

Experience the Extraordinary 

This is not your average campsite (though you can make s’mores around the campfire and watch movies out under the stars). For starters, you can indulge in spa treatments at Auriga Wellness, get bigger guns at the Armory gym and enjoy board games and books in the comfort of the Officers Tent lounge. The hotel can help to arrange rainforest expeditions, 4x4 trips to the Penulisan Hills with picnic pit stops at Lake Batur, visits to a local farm, art classes, chocolate tastings and coffee workshops. For a day trip, head out to the rice terraces at Tegalalang and admire the artful irrigation, or visit the Kanto Lampo waterfall. For a smug sense of achievement, complete the Campuhan Ridge Walk, which comes with plenty of handsome hilly views. Take the waters at Pura Tirta Empul, a sacred temple complex with added hot springs, thought to have curative powers (hence the pilgrims).


You’ll find Capella Ubud in (no prizes) Ubud, the rice-paddy-filled, rainforested centre of Bali.


The island’s Ngurah Rai airport is an hour and a half away by car. If you’ve booked a two-night stay or more, return airport transfers are included.


It’s a 20-minute drive to the centre of Ubud and the hotel has valet parking – but you have been warned: driving on Bali is not for the faint-hearted. It’s easier to hire a private driver than your own wagon.


Jl. Raya Dalem, Banjar Triwangsa- Desa Keliki, Kecamatan Tegallalang Bali Ubud, 80561Indonesia

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