The pleasing quietude of the paved courtyard and sunkissed roof terrace make the casa hard to leave. You could easily spend entire days eschewing the cultural wonders beyond the front door in favour of shuttling gently from massage room to patio to rooftop pool. Step outside though, and you’ll soon discover why San Miguel de Allende is so in vogue with in-the-know LA and NYC hipsters right now: colourful buildings in turmeric yellow, sky blue and pomegranate red showcase magnificent Mexican and colonial Spanish architecture along wonkily-cobbled Unesco-listed streets, meaning snap-happy – and high-heeled – visitors won’t get anywhere fast. The city’s main square, El Jardin, more than lives up to its name. Here, perfectly manicured laurel trees provide shade for an afternoon of high-quality people watching, and mariachi bands add a festive atmosphere on weekends. The square is also where you’ll find the city’s most photographed building. Best snapped at dawn or dusk, Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel is a fine Gothic confection in pale pink stone, its soaring towers often earning it not unreasonable comparisons to a wedding cake. San Miguel de Allende morphed into something of a cultural mecca when bohemian artists and artisans gravitated here in their hundreds in the wake of the Mexican War of Independence. You’ll find evidence of this everywhere, but no more so than in the thriving markets where colourful handpainted ceramics, woven tote bags and unique silver jewellery are yours for a song – assuming you barter like a pro. The covered Mercado de Artesanias is open daily, while Tianguis Organico in the Instituto Allende art school is the place to go for artisan foodie treats on weekends – trust us, that fresh-off-the-grill chicken quesadilla oozing cheese will do wonders for your mezcal-cocktail hangover.